- Area: Conwy
- Local Train Operators: Arriva Trains Wales
- Length: 4 miles
- Points of Note: Dolwyddelan Castle
- OS maps – OL18 (1:25,000); Landranger 115 (1:50,000)
This is an innocent and scenic little walk, probably best done as part of a day out on the Conwy Valley line rather than justifying a day out in its own right.
The Conwy Valley line is a lightly-used route through lightly-populated countryside with a lightly-provided service. The timetable is, like all ATW services, based around a clockface hour; here trains leave Llandudno Junction for Blaenau Ffestiniog around xx:30 and return from Blaenau around xx:35. Owing to limited rolling stock, limited traffic and limited infrastructure, two out of every three of these hourly trains do not run. Some careful timekeeping is required to avoid being isolated in a notoriously wet corner of Snowdonia, particularly if aiming to make a Porthmadog connection at Blaenau.
Pont-y-Pant is a pleasantly-placed little station, unencumbered by the presence of Pont-y-Pant itself; the community is a fictional creation of the London & North Western Railway and what housing does exist is situated on the A470 on the other side of the river. The station building remains, splendidly whitewashed and privately owned. Look out for evidence that the customer information system works and any signage remaining from previous train operators.
Turn right on leaving the station and follow the lane southwards up the valley. This follows the railway for a little way and then kinks up the hillside to a farm, where it ends. Pass the farm and continue along the successor track, which drops gently down over a ridge and falls to the valley bottom. A bridge under the railway leads out onto the floodplain of the Lledr and some pleasing views.
Follow the track southwards as it wavers around the riverbank before regaining its road status and rises up to Dolwyddelan station.
The station used to have an island platform, access only from the overbridge (which carries the “Sarn Helen” Roman road) and a crossing loop. An off-pattern service from Blaenau is timed to cross one of the “ghost” paths here. Not much actually happens here now, although those who alighted from a Blaenau-bound train at Pont-y-Pant have a reasonable chance of getting here in time to see it heading back to Llandudno.
Drop out of the station and use the nicely-modernised (a long time ago) Sarn Helen to cross the river to the community of Dolwyddelan, which like the community at Pont-y-Pant is located on the A470.
Those used to the impressively straight lines of Watling Street and the Fosse Way will find Sarn Helen to be somewhat off the usual concept of Roman roads. There is a limit as to the ability to go in straight lines for thirty-odd miles in this terrain, so it wobbles its way across the mountain tops. It is alleged to have been built to allow a Roman Emperor to reach Caernarfon and collect the (literal) girl of his dreams. One has to have reasons for major infrastructure investment, after all.
For obvious reasons, when building the main turnpike road to Holyhead (now the A5) Thomas Telford used Watling Street to Shrewsbury and then took a lower route via Chirk, Llangollen and Betws-y-Coed to Bangor. It has some nasty curves, but avoids the bleaker mountain summits.
Once across the river and in Dolwyddelan, turn left and follow the A470 southwards. A pavement is kindly supplied, although at one point it turns into a lay-by. The Welsh Government is yet to follow their lead further south at Builth and recycle the pavement as part of a wider road.
Shortly after the lay-by, fork off up the byway that climbs off to the right. This swings gently round the hillside to a sign pointing to the left for the ticket office for the castle. This is awkwardly situated down in the farm (specifically it’s the farmer’s wife at the back door of the house) some sixty feet below the castle itself. If intending to explore the castle (a large tower on an outcrop) drop down to the farmhouse, buy tickets as required and then climb up back here before pressing on up the back of the outcrop.
The castle has been coming in and out of view for a while, but is still quite something when actually reached. For all that it is one tower with a few ruins dotted around, its bleak situation tucked amongst the mountains gives it a grandeur lacked by larger castles sat in big cities. And while minimal in itself, the views are worth the entry fee.
Once down from the castle, turn left and press on up the byway over the next rocky outcrop. It then drops gently down into the valley near Roman Bridge. On gaining the road, turn left to drop down to the water and the bridge itself.
There is no centre of population here to speak of – merely a few scattered farmhouses around a bridge over the river. Thus having decided to build a station here – stark in its isolation amongst the mountains and wearing a coat of whitewash to match Pont-y-Pant – the London & North Western had to call the platform something and so why not Roman Bridge? Except, of course, for the small matter that the Roman road is at Dolwyddelan and the ramshackle stone bridge here has no particular historic connotations…
Follow the road as it snakes around the base of the hillock and then drops over the precipices to the station. Roman Bridge is well-maintained and provided with a customer information system. This draws train running information from the railway’s signalling which, like the train service, is sporadic. In 2015 it was Wales’s second-least-used station (Pont-y-Pant was fifth-least). The building was recently for sale for £450,000, including fishing rights. Aside from the railway station, there are no other facilities in the neighbourhood.
Railway, river and passable track head two miles further up the valley (which can be followed by turning right at the end of the byway instead of left) before all comes to an abrupt halt beneath Moel Dyrnogydd. The river twirls up a gully, the road gives up and the railway plunges into a 2½-mile tunnel to emerge amongst the slate tips of Blaenau Ffestiniog.