- Area: Hampshire
- Local Train Operators: Mid-Hants Railway/ South West Trains
- Length: About 8 miles
- Points of Note: Jane Austen’s House, Chawton
- OS maps – OL32 & OL33 (1:25,000) (crosses two maps); Landranger 186 (1:50,000)
This is a pleasantly rambling sort of walk which done in this direction has a predominantly downhill orientation. If done in reverse, it is more inclined to have an uphill feel about it.
Travellers coming from the west (Alresford and Ropley) are advised to check their return train carefully before leaving the Mid-Hants station at Medstead & Four Marks.
To say Medstead & Four Marks is a rather well-preserved sort of station is rather like saying the late Wolfgang Mozart’s music is rather pleasant to listen to. A comparison with some “past” photos on display in the station eventually reaches the note that remarks the signal box cabin had to be replaced after the original was demolished. This fits in very well, and otherwise it looks much as ever.
Medstead is the old community which thoughtlessly was founded some distance from the route of the railway. Four Marks, which mostly consists of mid-20th century houses, later grew up around the station. There is a certain air to the architecture of a place which stopped expanding when the station closed with the withdrawal of trains between Alton and Winchester in 1973.
Head out of the station using the footpath off the Alresford-bound platform and work through the back alleys (right, left, right, left, right, straight across) to the main road, emerging opposite the Chinese takeaway, which is next door to Tesco and just up the road from the chippie. Cross the road (the A31 to Winchester) and turn left up the hill.
At the top, just before the turning to Medstead, turn right down the gully and follow it through the housing estates until it skirts into open country and drops onto a road consisting of suburban villas. Cross this road and take the signposted path on the other side into the woods.
Proceed down this path, which goes on for quite some distance along the edge of the wood. Eventually the path opens out into fields with attractive views off to the east.
These are the fields of the rather wonderfully-named Pies Farm and, unfortunately, are actually after the required turnoff. Go back into the wood and take the right turn (left from the Four Marks direction) and continue along a different edge of the wood. From here the walk follows St Swithun’s Way to Chawton, but this is not overly well-signposted so the fact is not much use. Make do with enjoying the gentle falling gradient through the dappled light beneath the deciduous trees to the pungent scent of the pines off to the left. Eventually the path emerges again, this time at Upper Woodside Farm.
Follow the road as it swings down the hill and over a little ridge until it reaches a hedge and takes a right-angle to the right. Take the left turn down a track along the side of a field, avoiding the bollard provided to discourage vehicular access. (This bollard is made out of a bit of old tree and makes a very strong and stable base for resting the rucksack while taking a drink, with the added benefit that it can be moved around as circumstances require – though the farmer would no doubt appreciate it finishing up where it started.)
Follow this track as it goes halfway up the field and then turns right across another field. At the cross-tracks by the barns turn left and up a new track which rises gently through the copse on a slight embankment, curving gently to the right. This is the former Alton to Fareham railway. An overbridge at Southfield Farm highlights the route’s former use.
After the bridge the railway alignment abruptly ends where it has been ploughed back into the fields. After the first field the footpath turns right, drops down to a wood, goes through the wood, turns right down another field boundary and comes out on the A32 Alton to Fareham road.
Cross the road (obviously quiet as there is no need for the railway) and go up the path on the other side. This works alongside a field and into a cul-de-sac. At the end of the cul-de-sac, turn left.
This is the old route of the Alton to Fareham road, which proceeds northwards for a couple of hundred yards past cricket fields and cottages to the village green and a road junction with the old road to Winchester. On the right are two pubs next door to each other (“Cassandra’s Cup” and “The Greyfriar”). On the left is a large brick house, formerly part of the local landlord’s estate. In the early 19th-century the then-landlord let his widowed mother, his two sisters and their friend use it as a home rent-free. Thus it was that here, overlooking the junction between the two main roads from London to the various parts of Hampshire, several key ports and the Isle of Wight, the novelist Jane Austen revised two novels, wrote three-and-a-bit more and became a good-selling writer.
Before her publisher started putting her name on the title page (instead of attributing the latest work to “The Author of Sense & Sensibility, Pride & Prejudice, &c.”) she inconveniently succumbed to a severe bout of ill-health and died at the age of 41, leaving the world a mere six satirical novels (as opposed to, say, a rather more desirable ten or twelve) plus a splendid collection of juvenalia, fragments and Lady Susan. The house is now a museum and Chawton has been firmly bypassed; the upshot is that the room interiors and the traffic levels outside are both much as Austen would have known them.
The option exists of dropping in on the museum for a couple of hours idle perusing. Otherwise carry on past the pubs and a couple of cottages beyond and take the footpath down the gully off to the right. Cross the following field next to the hump of an old wall, leaving the spinney to the left. Head through the gate on the other side, climb up through the copse and go through the gate into the field. Follow the signposts, the path through the grass and the shortest route to the next stile or gate. Austen fans can imagine her taking her afternoon walks with her sister Cassandra along this way.
After some little while the path comes to Whitehouse Farm and heads north up the access road to the B3006. Cross the road with due care and head through the hedge on the other side. The path emerges onto two tracks, separated by a fence, both heading in the correct sort of direction and neither obviously signposted as the right of way.
It appears the further path is the correct one, leading up to the farm buildings, running around the western and northern edges of the complex and then following the hedge eastwards on the far side down a designated double-fenced alley. The nearer path goes around much the same sort of route, passes through a builders yard and then picks up the correct side of the eastward hedge – via several wire fences. At the end of the eastward hedge the two options come together (with no signposting as to which side is preferred by the landowner). Head for a footbridge which carries the path over the stream into a nettle bed. On the other side is a minor road. Join it and turn left. (It is sorely tempting to follow the bank of the stream for a dozen yards until it passes under the road and pick up the lane there instead.)
This is a very pleasant lane to follow for maybe a third of a mile until it comes to a sort of crossroads after a gate. Take the bridlepath (Water Lane) to the left towards Alton. This leads to the Alton bypass, which turns out to have been very cheaply built in 1970; the dual carriageway (with central reservation but no crashbarrier) passes above Water Lane but has to be crossed on the level. Visibility is reasonable. This is not an unusual state of affairs on British trunk roads; users are urged not to bring the fitness levels of British walkers into disrepute (or, indeed, bring the fine reputation of British road safety into disrepute and infer that truncating the duplicate railway might have been short-sighted) by carrying out experiments into whether cars react to people using public rights of way and generally contributing to the business case for a subway.
As can be not-quite-seen in the picture, continuing along the lane will come to a bridge carrying a minor road under the bypass for those who prefer to chance narrow back lanes against sweeping bypasses.
Once past the bypass, clamber straight up the following hill into Alton’s outer suburbs. Drop gently down the other side, looking first for a turning in from the left (as a reference point) and then a discreet gully with a “No cycling” sign off to the right. It is maybe two hundred yards before the continuing road crosses the railway back to Medstead. Follow this gully, turning left at the end down a further gully and dropping down the escarpment via a flight of steps to Lower Turk Street.
Cross Lower Turk Street and follow the path alongside the railway embankment. This comes alongside King’s Pond, which in some sort of Spirit has been allowed to be largely separated from the path by a bank of trees. At the occasional breaks are warnings not to feed bread to the ducks. The locals get around this by giving them digestive biscuits instead. One feels this is a severe case of loopholery.
Head out of the park at the other end of the lake into Waterside Court complex, turning right and then left to gain the main road adjacent to a gold postbox. Turn left and pass under the railway. The station is up the slope to the right. Following the road to the top and turning left will bring the walker to Alton’s takeaway.
Alton station is one of several good examples of shared National Rail/ heritage railway station facilities. The Mid-Hants comes in round the back on platform 3; platform 2 offers a through connection for the occasional special running straight through to Alresford plus periodic stock moves. The original footbridge survives, though sealed off, at time of writing following a campaign that it is part of the heritage air of the station. Its replacement is fitted with lifts and is a considerably longer walk for anyone unfortunate enough to find their train home leaves from the 2/3 island.